Tips for cycling in Cuba

So a final post about cycling in Cuba – and this is written with 2 specific people in mind who will be cycling in Cuba in October.

1. Cuba is beautifully chaotic, wonderful and very different to what you are used to. Say ‘yes’ to every opportunity provided.
2. The Cuban people are incredible generous, friendly, and supportive
3. Don’t believe the hype – Cuba is not all flat. Your tour guide knows where the hills are – you cannot escape them.
4. The weather plays the most significant role – check the forecast and estimated average temperature. You are unlikely to be able to train in the UK for the one two punch of heat plus humidity
5. The road surfaces can vary wildly – expect to ride on compacted dirt, followed by potholed roads, to Tarmac highways. But mostly potholed roads
6. Mountain bikes are the best option (see tip 5 for rationale)
7. Absolutely essential items: padded shorts, chamois cream, sunglasses, sunscreen, wet wipes, and tried and tested gear beats brand new every time.
8. A public toilet in the UK is largely a private affair, a public toilet in Cuba is not. Before arriving, you think you will be able to hold on for a “proper” toilet – this will not last, you will get good at spotting potential bushes to relieve yourself. Accept it, pack wet wipes, and bring antibacterial gel.
9. If you want to ride big, you gotta eat and drink big. Skipping meals is crazy, please top up your water bottle every chance, and get used to bananas and peanuts.
10. Train, train, train – being used to riding a bike for hours makes everything easier: you can chill out, speak to people, take photos without falling behind, and makes it a more enjoyable trip.

LAST THING – learn the language – the trip leaders have a slightly different language:

“Flat” = there are hills
“Quite hilly” = mountain range ahead
“Very hilly” = Everest
“Easy” = not quite as easy as you think it is
“Quite easy” = if 10% get through the day without getting on the support bus
“Challenge” = no known survivors on this route
“X Kms” = always times the estimation by 2.5
“Lie in” = alarms set for 5.45am
“Light showers” = akin to a deluge/monsoon
“Warm day” = hotter than the surface of the sun

Last Day of Havana

Last day in Cuba – expected temperature : 35 degrees

 

I slept the sleep of the dead – feet still swollen, but getting slightly better.

Today is the last day, well last half day, and there are a few of us who are going back into Havana to have more of a look around. Jane, Anna, Liz and myself grab the first taxi headed into town, which happens to be a big green cadillac. It was great – complete inside done, with bench seats in the front and back.

 

First stop was the handicrafts market – we split up to save time, and convinced ourselves that we were going to get something distinctly Cuban. My Australian-ness kicked in, as i had to reject anything that wouldn’t survive Australian customs (i.e. nothing made of wood, nothing with seeds or leather), which made it harder to find something. What did blow me away was the fantastic pieces of art that were available – i ended up buying 2 oil paintings that i instantly loved, a few rings, and a small jewellery box. Anna bought some instruments for her kids, Liz bought jewellery for her girls, and Jane bought a whole host of things. It was a nice transition back into our lives in the UK, though i could have spent a small fortune buying more paintings and pictures. Ah well, next time. 

 

After this we decided to go back into the main squares, and have a daiquiri or two at the Floridita bar. The main claim to fame of this bar is not the daiquiris, but the fact that it was one of the two bars that Ernest Hemingway frequented during his life in Cuba. Yep it is touristy, yep it plays up the Hemingway connection, and yep i loved it. We ended up staying for lunch and a couple of drinks – i did resist the temptation to have my photo taken next to the bronze statue, but only just.

 

 

 

You may have noticed that the photos got steadily blurrier – exactly like me after a few of those drinks.

 

And with that it was time for Liz and I to head back to the hotel for our flight – Jane and Anna were staying on a few extra days, so lots of hugs, and we were off back in the green cadillac. The buses for the airport were leaving at 3pm – at 2.55 we were still in the cab. By 2.56 we could see the hotel, but sweating on someone being later than us, and by 2.58 we were running to get our luggage. We just made it, regrettably, so we were off to Havana Airport. 

 

It is at times like this that you pray for an upgrade, or at least an aisle seat. All sisterly bonds are dissolved, and you just pray that you will get some sleep. We arrived at the airport 3.5 hours before take off, and there is absolutely nothing to do at the airport expect a small duty free (rum, cigars or coffee anyone??). Someone enquired about the cost of an upgrade to premium economy – it would be 189 GBPs, which more than a few people took up. I got an aisle seat, and between that and my noise cancelling headphones i was determined to get some sleep. 

 

I did try to do some shopping, as the CUC (Cuban pesos) can only be used or exchanged in Cuba. The currency place unfortunately ran out of GBPs, so i bought some keyrings and a poster of Che Guevara. Also at the airport was a huge display about the “Miami Five” – 5 Cubans who were arrested in the US, and there is a dispute about the reason and type of trial they received. Very interesting to see a non- US version of the events on this.

 

 

 

 

We started to board the plane, and i collapsed into my seat – i wanted to sleep for the full 8 and a bit hours. Headphones on, ready to go, when out of the corner of my eye i see something going on with a member of our group and a passenger. It turned out that a heavily intoxicated passenger decided to get a bit pushy with 2 of the people he was sitting next to (he was in the middle, the ladies were either side). He pushed them in the chest area, and then accused them of taking his seat. When the cabin crew came, they also got a push or two – this guy was huge. I don’t mean tall, but he was of a size that the cabin crew didn’t feel that they could control him. they asked him to leave, he just stayed put, so 3 security guards were called onto the plane to escort him. And with that he was not on the plane with us to Gatwick. The two ladies in our group were visibly upset, and moved to a section of the plane with more room. Not even as we were leaving could we avoid trouble. 

 

The rest of the flight was uneventful, and i got about 2 hours sleep before pulling into Gatwick. Despite the grey weather, i was glad to be back home. Opening the front door was great, and i laughed so much when i realised the horrible tan lines i had  – I mean seriously, who has tan lines on their hands???

 

But i was home, ready for some sleep, and ever grateful for the wonderful time I had in Cuba x

La Habana

No cycling today – expected temperature : 36 degrees

 

Started the day with a rum based celebration hangover and a 3 hour transfer to Havana.

 

The transfer was used for sleep by everyone, only to be happily interrupted by a stop for a bathroom break and icecream. The mood within the group is subdued – some people happy to go home, others keen for a day off, and a limited few want a little more cycling time today. I’m in the minority and out of luck – today we have a walking tour of Havana, lunch, and then to the hotel.

 

Lunch ended up happening first, which was at a local taverna – there was also space for flamenco dancing and there was a great show on. A tiny woman was pounding out a beat while a live band played and clapped in the background. There was no doubt, she was completely in control and wasn’t about to take crap from anyone. The dancing was fabulous and took my breathe away – if i was ever to get into a fight, i’d want one of the flamenco ladies backing me up. There was also a man dancing who had the best hair i’ve possibly ever seen (regardless of gender). It was thick, glossy, cut to perfection, and seemingly unaffected by humidity – and on top of that it fell perfectly back into place after every turn. I wasn’t the only one who thought so, and the first conversation after lunch was about his hair – with 10 seperate people.

 

But on to non-hair related things – after lunch we started our walking tour around Havana. If i only had a few words to describe the city it would be “beautiful chaos”. There are restorations projects right next to decaying buildings, in all shades and colours. I’ve taken more than enough photos, so hopefully you get a good idea from the pics below:

 

While walking through the city we were approach by a lot of different street people – mostly people interested in selling food. Unfortunately we were surrounded by a lot of peanut sellers and had to tell them that they couldn’t have picked a worse group – we had been eating peanuts solidly for the past 5 days. One seller commented that “Havana was being invaded by women” and asked our tour guide what he had done to have so many women following him around. We go to the main square where there are many many books for sale, mostly centered around the revolution and Che. One of the rich families who lived near the square decided they wanted cobblestones, but didn’t want the noise of the cobblestones so made them out of wood. It was one of those small things that sticks in your mind, and then you realise “Despite them being made of wood, i’d probably still fall over them in my high heels after a big night out”.

Talking of feet, most of us are suffering from swollen ankles today – many theories going around of why, including : a reaction to the heat, swollen ankle joints from the cycling, and a lack of cycling. Regardless, they are horribly puffy and i think i’ve lost all sight of my ankle bone – or more accurately my ankle bone has been swallowed by expanding skin and fluid.

 

Walking around the city it is clear what makes this city unique, much more than any other capital i’ve been in – there are no shops, no advertising, no brand names. Or at least, there are only a few. I’ve not seen a coca-cola sign in all my time, let alone a can for sale, you can’t just pop into a supermarket for something you’ve forgotten, and Havana is not currently the shopping capital of the world. It is actually really lovely – you focus on the people and the architecture, rather than consumption. People are selling you types of food, not brands. Tourism is a major industry, and in one of the squares there is preparations for a major tourism banquet:

 

We do end up going shopping – but for cigar and rum, and there wasn’t a sign on the door saying what it did, more a large wooden door that our tour guide knew. Inside was an Aladdin’s cave of coffe, rum and cigars. Huzzah, the mother lode! The choice of cigars is slightly paralysing – different lengths, thicknesses, brands. Do you want the same brand that Castro used? What about Che’s choice (before his asthma made smoking cigars too tough)? You name it, they were here – cohibas, monte cristos, romeo y julieta. I’m completely out of my element – i don’t smoke, have no idea what to get, or even who i would give these to. In the end i go for the safe choice – a complete mixed bag, with a couple of different types (yes to Castro’s and Che’s preferred, and a “ladies cigar”). Additionally i am also now the proud owner of 2 litres of local rum – which our tour guide says is actually better than the Havana Club stuff. I trust him, i’m not a big rum drinker, and the two bottles end up costing 12 CUC (about 7.50 GBP).

 

After with that i’m exhausted, praying for the relief of the hotel to boost my spirits before tonight’s celebration dinner. Clearly i’m not the only one – lots of people sleeping on the bus. It has been a strange day – we’ve cycled for the past 5 days, but the city walking tour is the thing that defeats us? So the dinner tonight is the last even together – it is going to either be a very very late one, or a simple early one.

 

Here are some more photos of Havana:

“Just one more hola”

Celebration dinner tonight – our final meal together, and a farewell.

We had a seperate dining room in the hotel set up for us. – round tables set up to celebrate our achievement. I sat with Jane Mitchell, Liz, Anna, Amy and Jane Brashill. Dinner wasn’t great – by far the worst, but it did provide for some hilarious moments.We had a great time telling stories about the trip , how we were going to tell others about the trip, highlights, and things we’d improve. I fessed up to sprinting away from a specific person rather than being stuck riding with them, and it turned out that she drove everyone else nuts as well. Anna (from Chester), was incredibly quiet but once she got started she was absolutely hilarious – she speaks fluent Spanish, and said that if this person said “just one more hola” while waving to local people she was going to break her. We all fell about laughing, and this was a great way to end the journey together.

So highlights : achieving the ride, being challenged beyond what we thought we could do, the camaraderie amongst the group, the standard of food, ground staff support, logistics of moving 100 people around, going to the school, the people in the towns who yelled out, seeing a side of Cuba that few could have seen, and being resilient in the face of difficult circumstances.

There was talk of improvements, but I’ll keep them for when I can consider them without the emotional hangover of finishing.

After dinner we went to the bar and compared our swollen ankles – a picture tells a thousand words, so check out this photo :

You wouldn’t guess that these feet have pedaled through Cuba, more like are ready to give birth. Hopefully tomorrow they start settling down ( I hear that rum is an excellent way to help).

Stairs – the natural enemy of Daleks and cyclists

Last day of cycling 

 

Expected distance : 87kms, expected temperature : 35 degrees

 

 

Today the destination is Santa Clara – a city of significance for the revolution, and in particularly for Che Guevara. It was in the this city that a train was captured filled with armaments to be used in support of Batista’s government – they were captured by Che and his commandos, and the next day Batista fled Cuba and Fidel headed up the government. It goes without saying that this event changed the face of Cuba. 

The largest statue of Che is in Santa Clara, and it is clear that he is revered. Potentially more so than Castro – not only because Guevara was murdered, but also because he was the idealist. I didn’t realise that he was Argentinian, rather than Cuban. And Jane has lent me a copy of a book that Che’s wife has written about her time with him – it is heartbreaking, and includes letters and postcards that he sent. 

 

 

On to the cycling…

It is sad to think that this is the last day of cycling – i want to keep cycling for a few more days. And i’m in the absolute minority (possibly a minority of 1). I get the sense that the other women in the group would happily ditch the bike and head on home. Maybe that is a little unfair, lets say about 90% would ditch.

The average age of the group is about 40 years old, and most everyone has a family to go home to. Jude, at 71 years old, isn’t the oldest, i think it is Carol who take the crown, at 75 years old. The youngest would either be Amy Brashill (about 23) or Nicki (Breast cancer care – she is straight out of uni, so about 23 as well). There is a strange mix of injuries within the group now  – everyone has bruises, some have cuts, blisters on feet, and the strangest i’ve heard of is blisters in genital areas (a little too graphic to go into detail of how she got those). There is also a lot of sunburn – i’ve now got a great tanline where my cycling tops finished. I resemble the English flag and suspect it is a tanline that will be there for a few years. But the strangest is the tan on my fingers due to the fingerless gloves – my wrist in red, main part of my hand is stark white, and then my fingers red.

 

Being the last day i push myself to the front and ride quickly- i loved it! Sure, it isn’t the Tour de France, but it is so much fun to go fast. I managed to stick with the pack for the day, and finish 6th. The scenery was beautiful, everyone was in great spriits, and there was a good lot of chat going on. If this is what it is like to ride with a group of people, then sign me up for the rest of my life. I made a mental note to find my local cycle group, to purchase clip in shoes and pedals, and to sign up for more challenges in the UK. 

 

And then the hills arrived, along with some exceptionally potholed and bumpy roads. I don’t have any pictures, but there is no way those roads would exist in that condition in most places. The impact on me was huge, a lot of draining of energy (both in the legs, as you are standing up to save your butt taking all the impact, and your arms in taking the vibrations and bumps of the road), and then of course, the butt gets a surprise shock or two (don’t let the hype fool you – gel seats wouldn’t have prevented a thing on this road). Local cycle group plans were scuttled 🙂

 

The people in the town are looking at us as if we were crazy – and i think you would have to be to do this. One of the bus drivers told us that another bus driver (not with our group) came up to him and said “Are you with those crazy ladies doing the bike riding?”. Yes, we were crazy to be doing this, but completely determined. 

 

We had 50kms before lunch, then 19kms before another break, then the final part. We had a stop at Revolutionary Square, where our guides/cyclists spoke.

 

 

 

We then had a short 2kms to the hotel – and the promise of a pool. Crossing that finish line was an emotional experience – relief that it was over, celebration of what we had achieved, and tears for those who we were cycling for. There were lots of women on the trip who had or have cancer, and who had lost many loved ones. There was a very short talk, and then it was over. 15 mins later the bikes were being packed away, and we started jumping into the pool fully clothed. It was bliss! The rest of the people staying at the hotel were looking at as like we had escaped from the mental institution – but after we had explained what we had be doing, they were cheering along. The Cuba Libres started to flow, it was sunny and warm, and we had just cycled 300 miles. 

 

At dinner people were happy and tired – and then we got 8 drinks each at the pool bar. The night went on from there, and I ended up dancing salsa at a nightclub until 2am with some of the others on the tour. Ennio (one of the the support staff) was  patient as my dance teacher – but i picked it up pretty soon, and we did the whole salsa partnering thing with hand grips and turns. It could have been the Cuba Libres, but i didn’t mind, it was like i was in my own Bacardi ad. A few of the tour guides came with us, so it was a final group of 12 of us dancing to everyone from Miley Cyrus (seriously), as well as Cuban salsa music. At 2am i decided that i was done, and fell asleep all too easily.

 

Tomorrow Havana!

“I’m so glad the Communists took our rooms”

Start : walking tour of Trinidad

Expected distance : 82kms, expected temperature : 36 degrees (98 F)

 

Today was downright hard.

It started with a walking tour of Trinidad (absolutely beautiful) – a UNESCO city that was founded 500 years ago. Our tour guide through the city was one of the Cuban cyclists – he knew so much about the history of the city, and took us through the everyday life of people in Cuba. The most fascinating thing was the ration book – that all Cuban citizens have, that list what they are able to purchase each month. The average monthly wage is 15 CUC (about 9 pounds or $15 USD), and the state provides a basic amount of fund by which to purchase food to live (by no means is it lavish – we are talking rice, 1 pound of chicken per month). This doesn’t include clothing, so you get the idea that there is a pretty healthy trade to be made in items such as shampoo, soap etc from hotels. We see people begging, and it really hits home – this is the best option to provide family with better lives. It really made cycling seem insignificant. 

 

Today topped out at about 35 degrees – and it was a long day and with little or no shade. We took a slightly different route than planned, so our expected 83kms was more like 100. Lots of hills that just kept on climbing, with no downhill. Again there was a hill that went for 6kms, climbed then plateau, then climb and plateau. It was the ride after lunch in the hottest part, and it took every piece of energy I had to complete it. There was no finishing in the top 10 day – just finishing was enough.Luckily at the break we were doused with water, and fed a steady diet of salty crisps and bananas (today’s count = 5 bananas). 

 

Hills have been a surprise for me – i thought i’d completely and miserably fail at getting over them, but i’m getting the hang of them. And that the part that the right gear selection can take. In the lower temperatures and humidity I think i might even like them. There were 3 ladies who really helped me up the last hill today – i was fried, had no energy left, and was ready to stop for a while. All it took was them saying “you keep it going”, and “stick with us for a bit” for me to recover – it was incredibly selfless. 

 

The scenery – i wish i could have taken all the photos i wanted to share. The countryside was a stunning mix of dark green, the hills, picturesque mountains, and these unique towns and buildings. The local people have continued to yell out, wave, run beside us, and grab their bike to ride – our “hola’s” don’t seem like enough. 

 

The finish for today was a ride through Spirito Sanctus, and the news that our group had to be split up for accommodation. Specifically, the Communist Party had taken 50% of the hotel rooms that day, and there was nothing we could do. As a result there were some people going to a different hotel – i had nightmares of being in “the other hotel” when i saw my name on the list. 

 

There were about 40 of us bused to the new hotel – and it turned out to be the Colonial style hotel newly renovated right next to a main square. The inside resembled a palace – high ceilings, marble staircase, and i got a room to myself (photos below). And there was a great cocktail bar, where you could get a mojito for 2.5 CUC (about 1.50 GBP). Our group was up for a celebration. 

So, all in all, a big day, lots to be proud of, lots still to achieved, and in stunned disbelief at how wonderful Cuba is. 

Rain, hail and shine

Day 3 of cycling – expected distance : 103kms, expected temperature : 35 degrees

 

Just before bed last night there was a briefing by Theo (tour leader) – some of the women who completed India have been providing “feedback” on the trip, and Theo wanted to address it – i.e. you can’t compare two tours, especially in a country like Cuba. Things have progressed so much, but the regulations that govern the country make things less flexible (and they are changing slowly). It was a great reminder of how much we have compared to the local population. Theo also reminds us that tomorrow is likely to be the hardest day, with lots of hills (or as he is calling them “undulations”). 

 

So sleep was a little patchy, as the day includes a 6km monster close to start, and then undulations until the finish. I wasn’t the only anxious one, and breakfast was incredibly quiet – lots of people acknowledging the degree of challenge that would face them today. Yesterday was supposed to be easy, and it was tough, so how bad would today be?

 

Happily i got distracted by the bus driver, as he decided to lock the bus up (with everyone’s stuff inside – e.g. helmet, gloves, water bottles). And kept it locked while he was having breakfast, right up until 10 minutes before the start. It was getting to the point that nerves was overtaking, and the temperature was already hitting the early 30s. Luckily the driver was found, and the tension relieved by the rain – slow at first, and by the start of the big hill it was bucketing down. Big fat and hard rain. It was like the prayers of the group had been answered, and as it continued the anger within the group dissipated. 

 

I felt really good riding today – my stomach was fine, breakfast now included fruit, and i was getting over the last bits of jetlag. It was the best i had felt while in Cuba. I started off with Liz and Anne-Marie – we were all nervous about what lay ahead, and let the “pros” go ahead while we got our bearings. 

 

Our group of 103 women started all together, and really enjoyed that first warm up before the hill. Lots of talking, lots of jokes, and people freely giving advice on how to use gears to go up hills, what gears for the flat, etc. After 5kms things started to shift, as the hill came into view. Our group started to break up, with the confident ones charging ahead, and the less experienced sitting back. It is a hard thing to decide what to do.  Riding in groups can be fun, but also dangerous – all it takes is for one person to move too close and bang, you are off your bike, with 20 people right behind you. Today there were 100+ women all wanting to prove themselves, on an unfamiliar road, and with various levels of fitness and experience on large, long hills. For me, it is also a reminder of how i broke my wrist last year, so i decide to take it a little easy. Alternatively, there was an uphill section that i happily took easy.

The monster hill was a monster, and just when you thought you were over it, there was another climb. I had tried to find some hills, but in central london its pretty flat. The rain also helped, as it was fun, and a lot cooler than the day before. We were so lucky to have the rain compared to the sun, and i don’t think it would have been anywhere near as enjoyable to go down those hills without it. After 25kms there was a voluntary water stop – which was hilarious given that we were completely soaked through. 

Just before our morning break the rain started to come down incredibly heavily – sunglasses steamed up, rain straight in the eyes, coudln’t see the road. But i absolutely loved it. At more than one stage i was yelling “weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee” at the top of my lungs as i screamed down the hill – it was hard, it was fun, and i was loving being able to go quick. It reminded me of what fun cycling as a kid was – getting stuck in the rain, and having to really move to get home before being soaked. I felt really good, was riding fast, and was happily passing people as we headed for the Caribbean coast. It was a complete 180 degree difference from the day before- people were up, and there was the promise of a dip in the ocean at our next hotel. All of this spurred us on, regardless of how quick we were going, people were encouraging, more friendly, and just giving. 

 

One of the most giving people was a 71 year old lady named Jude, who was cycling with her 2 daughters – Amanda and Debs. Jane had become good friends with Amanda, and it was nice to hear the background to why they were cycling. Unfortunately the cooler weather inspired Jude to push herself too hard, to the point of having an Angina attack. She was on the bus with the docs, and despite all her protests she was taken to the local hospital for tests. Both of her daughters were incredibly emotional about it, as it was their worst nightmare. Jude was determined to keep going, but the distress that it caused her family was enough to get her to go. Luckily things calmed down, but that was the end of her cycling days – she would not be allowed to get back on the bike, and would be acting in a support capacity only. Jude stayed so supportive, to the point that she bonded with the bus drivers and became a spare pair of hands, including throwing water on us as we cycled by (completely wonderful drive through shower). There were lots of questions about the Cuban hospital – and she reassured us that it looked horrible from the outside, but that the care that she received was absolutely first rate, and possibly better than what she received via the NHS. 

 

The countryside along the coast was stunning – beautiful beaches, friendly people, and for some reason there were roadkill crabs everywhere on the road. Lunch was not crabs, but at someone’s house in the hills – beans and rice, plaintain, and what was possibly goat. It was delicious, and i had no problems gulping it down nor the can of soft drink. I had lunch with Anne-Marie, Julia, and a lovely lady names Elaine. We just laughed at everything – how wet we were, how we never thought we would eat goat, at beans and rice for lunch (again), the bathroom, and how we were going to go later that day. It had stopped raining, but we were far from dry – some people had put on waterproof jackets (good on them), and one lady had those things you but over your shoes to keep them dry. Everyone else was soaked through, and my lovely Asics were no longer pristine – and i had a horrible feeling about the state of my feet. 

 

By the afternoon break we were buzzing – we were one hour ahead of schedule, and it was turning out to be everyone’s favourite day. For sure it was mine, and all we had was 48kms and a few hills to go. Inspiration can come in various forms, and i’m exactly proud of what inspired me to get up the last hill. There are always people that you meet that you think “We are just very very different and you will drive me crazy” – there was that person for me on this trip. Unfortunately she had overheard someone calling me Flick, and had proceeded to call me it all the time. She is used to working with children, and speaks to everyone like they are a kid, and has absolutely no filter (imagine someone saying everything they see, as they see it). I heard this lady cycling behind me, and disaster scenarios were visualized (“oh great, lets cycle together, it will be great, oh look there is a tree, don’t you just love those cars, and what gear are you in? i’m in …. you get the idea). And i’m not proud to admit it, but i decided to pick up the pace, put my bike into a bigger gear, and just put my head down and went. 

 

We arrived in Trinidad via a switchback hill (richmond park does not compete with this), had a break, and then quickly off for the last stretch. Amy Brashill and I decided to go for it – we had been riding with other people, and were ready. With about 5kms to go you coudl smell the ocean, and i could taste that first cocktail. Amy and I had a good chance to talk, including about her family (her Mum was on the trip), her 2 year old Mya, and her reasons for doing the ride. When we arrived at the hotel we couldn’t believe our luck – staying right on the beach, absolute postcard perfection, and the colours were staggering. I ended up in the water (first time in the Carribean), and was in an exhausted heaven. I’ve got some pics below, and have made myself a promise to go back there.

 

My favourite pair of socks were a casualty, completely ruined (photo below). My feet had been in those water loggged bad boys for the best part of 8 hours, and looks hideous. On a personal note I completely rocked this day – i  was ecstatic about finally being able to ride to my ability, and in a completely vain moment, resulted my finishing 7th overall for the day. I know it shouldn’t have mattered, but after the first day riding I wanted to prove to myself that i could ride, and that all the training, times away from friends, and preparation resulted in me doing my best. I celebrated with my first rum cocktail – boy howdy there was no skimping on the rum!

 

 

Today should be the easiest day, 2kms to go, and other falsehoods

Day 2 of cycling – expected distance 87 kms – expected temperature 35 degrees (98 degrees)

Urgh – woke up a few times during the night. Stomach still playing up, less than yesterday – feeling a littel queasy but mostly just lacking energy. Spoke to the doc this morning, who advised me to stick to basic foods – no fruit, lots of break, pancakes, and no juice. At this point I am ready to perform just about any ritual required in order for my body to hold food in. 

 

It has been startling to run into so many mid 20s Canadians who visit Cuba. The hotel was not too bad – it isn’t a 5 star place, but it is a nice solid hotel. Tourism is a significant industry here, but with the government owning most hotels it is hard to imagine a chain like Hilton being welcomed with open arms. Additionally the hotels are signficiantly better than the standard of living for most Cubans – things like the complimentary soap and shampoo are out of reach for most Cubans. We had started to collect it for the guides, as most things are rationed.

The hotel had the most wonderful pool – i’d say about 300 metres long, crystal blue waters. Unfortunately there was no time to enjoy it. Funnily, someone had looked up the hotel on TripAdvisor and it said that the hotel was something along the lines of ‘a place where visitors often bring prostitutes’. The group was on the lookout, but nothing to report back. 

But onto the cycling, today the day was kickstarted off with a police escort (they were straight out of CHIPS, check out the photo below) – we thought it would be just until the city limits, but ended up being for most of the day. there are not a lot of cars in Cuba, so while the roads are largely single lane, you don’t get the sense that you will be knocked off your bike. The guides say today is likely to be the flattest and potentially easiest day – huzzah! I really need an easy day, and i feel that i’m strongest on the flat. 

Liz and I ride together today – both of us were knocked around by our stomach’s yesterday, and make a pact to take it slow and steady today. The goal has shifted from competing to completing. 

Theo (our tour leader) has completed this trip 4 times previously, and is a good source of info – some people don’t react well to him, but he strikes me as a introverted guy who loves to ride his bike. Additionally, he is the leader of a group of 100+ women of various abilities – i wouldn’t want to be him for quids. Trish (assistant leader) is playing the role of camp counsellor – as there are quite a few women who really should be on the support bus, but are determined to ride the day. 

By the time we get to lunch it is clear that the temperature and wind are playing a big part. Although 35 degrees was expected, it is clear that by lunch it is well above that. Every day we have a water stop or two, a snack stop, water stop (if required), lunch (certainly required), water stop, snack stop, water stop, finish. Lunch is 55kms into the day, and a picnic. A call is made early on to get people to have lunch on the buses in order to cool down. The sheer relief of this cannot be expressed in words. I walked on the bus to see women collapsed under air vents, and snacking on cola and wraps. Lunch is great, and the sugar from the cola (not Coke) makes the world a brighter place. So far the day has been on a highway, with the last 5 kms winding through a dirt road town. Seeing this many women on bikes really stirred up the town, with many men getting on their bikes to ride with us, and kids waving from the sidewalks. 

 

Day 2 has also seen some interesting injuries – a suspected broken elbow, more diarrhea, dehydration, and sore backsides. Additionally it is clear who has trained for this event, and who thought to just “wing it”. I’d guess, but i’ve spoken to at least 5 people who have done little or no training before Cuba, and there is one person who hasn’t ridden a bike on the road before, and has done all their training in a Spin class. While brave, the unfortunate downside is that they have never experienced the joy that is padded cycling shorts and chamois cream. The prevailing wisdom is that saddle sores can largely be prevented by a well suited saddle, padded shorts and chamois cream – i’m lucky that i’ve found something that works for me. Today i discovered that this wisdom has not been shared or sought out – with the Spin class lady cycling all day yesterday (62kms) in a pair of leggings, resulting in a trip to the local Cuban hospital for a suspected kidney infection.

 

The trip today is through agricultural location, so long flat plains with nothing much on the horizon. Every few kms you see a large abandoned building (looks like a school), and then nothing until the next abandoned building. What is making the trip even harder is a significant headwind – after lunch we have 32 kms to go, but it feels a lot longer when we were out there. There was revolution in the air when we were told it was 2kms until the next water stop – so a lot of us just pushed on to complete the day. Unforatuntely it was more like 6kms. Never has the ‘stockdale paradox’ been so completely lived out – the finish line is always marked by 2 of our white buses. Today i was seeing a white bus on the horizon, only to find out it wasn’t ours. It really sapped my energy, and by the end i was angry, thirsty, and exhilarated that my stomach had settled down. 

 

We arrived at the hotel, and it can be described as crappy – there was a pool, but it was green. There was air conditioning, but it was incredibly noisy. There were spiders and mosquitoes everywhere. But i didn’t care. My stomach was settled, i had completed the full day of cycling, and i was getting used to the heat.

 

Funniest moment : We had one of the Cuban cyclist guides riding with us (Lazaro), who was riding right in front of a pack of us. He has a great butt, and it inspired quite a few of us to keep going, including Jen. Now Jen wasn’t the fittest or greatest cycler, but we could see her in full flight as Lazaro took off to bridge the gap with the group in front – Jen took off and sat straight behind him for the next 5kms. She was yelling out to everyone openly and proudly perving on him, what she was doing and why, unaware that Lazaro speaks Spanish, Italian and English fluently – all of which was filmed by one of her mates.  

J

 

Here are some photos :

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times

Day 1 of the cycling

Woke up this morning and was thankful that i had laid everything out that i thought i needed for the day. It was no small pile of things, and included : cycling shorts, top, shoes, socks, sunscreen, sunglasses, lip balm (SPF 50+), helmet, buff, anti bacterial gel, chamois cream, phone, and ibuprofen. 

Made my way down to the car park to chose my bike – there were 100 bikes laid out, mostly Trek and Specialized Mountain Bikes. The only difference was largely superficial – after trying out one bike, i selected a Trek. There were a team of mechanics there to fit any components that people had bought with them – i only bought my saddle, so was relatively quick. However some people had their own pedals, handlebar grips, and other bits fitted. The bikes themselves were ok – they had clearly had lives before us, and it took some getting used to the brakes – at home my bike is effective, but these ones could stop on a dime. If there was a soundtrack to be made of the morning, it would have most certainly included the sound of dodgy brakes.

As a group we had a briefing from the organisers and then were off – we were really well supported : 4 people from the challenge tour company, 1 from the cancer charity, 4 mechanics who were also our guides, 4 air conditioned buses, and 3 support vehicles (who stopped along the way with snacks and water). All i wanted to do was finish without getting on the bus – even though they were there for a reason. Lots of women had wore pink tshirts and decorated their bikes. I’d missed the memo on that, but was happy to be riding with Jane Mitchell. The first part of the day would be a quick 6 km warm up, before a longer stretch and then lunch. 

We set off and the local people were great in supporting us – lots of hellos, cars bipping their horns, and trucks giving us way. The first bit went so quickly. It was hot and humid – about 32 degrees by 8am, and steadily getting hotter. Today was one of the flatter days, so a good chance to gauge how things were going to be. The first hill was 2kms long, and luckily on a highway – lets just say that my gears got a work out, and i happily wasn’t the slowest person in the field. After that we made a turn onto some smaller roads that had seen better days – i now understood why we were on mountain bikes. You could have made pools from the size of the pot holes – and Karen, you made the right decision by not coming on this trip, the vibrations and knocks would have made it a painful first section. 

I was lucky to be riding with 2 great people, so the conditions weren’t too bad – Ann-Marie (from the plane) and Nicki (from breast cancer care) were great to talk to, and we happy to take it easy. Right before lunch things started to go wrong – my stomach started to cramp. Before coming to Cuba i had made all types of promises about what i would and wouldn’t do – and here i was on the first day contemplating what to do if the cramps turned into something more. There are times when you know that you need to go – and my body was giving me the distinct signal that something wasn’t right. I tried drinking lots and lots of water, i tried distraction, and i tried taking a break – those cramps wouldn’t go away, and i knew pretty quickly that dignity is a flexible concept when you are riding a bike and have diarrhea in a rural location with no public toilets. 

I was only about 20kms into the day, and really suffering. Luckily my two companions were incredibly supportive – stopping regularly, watching out for cars as i ran into the bushes, and providing words of encouragement. We had 15 kms to go until lunch, and i was running very short on energy. I did end up making it to lunch, with nothing left in the tank (no description required) – and showing real signs of dehydration –  I was shaking and dizzy, and according to a few people “quite pale” despite having drunk about 1.5 litres of water in 35 kms. 

At lunch there was a chance to sit down, more fluids, food, take some Imodium, and start on re hydration fluids – nothing much was working, and i couldn’t hold anything in. It was absolutely horrible – i was really weak and had to make the decision to get on the support bus for the next part of the trip. I felt like such a failure – here i was, having trained for months, now unable to ride. As it turned out, i wasn’t the only one with stomach problems – 12 others were on the bus after lunch. This didn’t make me feel any better. There were 3 other people on the bus with me, and we all felt like complete failures.

After the ride we went to the deaf and blind school – which relies on tourism and donations to keep going. We had all bought with us supplies of stationery, musical instruments, and things like shampoo and toothbrushes – it was a boarding school, and those little things are not provided. The kids were incredible excited by it all – they were amazing! Most of the teachers there had been previous students, and the kids had written out postcards for us as thank yous. The whole groups was on a high after that – it was a great reminder of what other people face and how they thrive on what they have. 

Now off to bed, hoping that the Imodium helps. Not my favourite day.

 

The group at the first break – as you can see, the road is pretty good here. It got steadily worse, and for the next 35kms it was largely unsealed roads

Madam, this is a plane, not a bar

Day 1 of the trip

 

I arrived at Gatwick to sea of pink t-shirts in support of the ride, name badges everywhere, and about 70 women with excited smiles. Arriving alone, it all bought back memories of the first day of school – everyone seemingly knowing everybody (except for you), everyone knowing what to do and say, and lots of name badges. My nightmare of turning up to the wrong airport was now behind me, and onwards to Cuba. 

 

In total there was over 100 women cycling on this trip – not all were on this plane, but we were big enough in numbers to get our own check in (thanks to Virgin airlines). For the trip we were placed at the back of the plane, and we looked like we were gathering for the world’s largest hen’s do. A lot of nervous energy was flying around, and luckily most people were friendly enough to smile and say hello. 

 

On the plane i was sat next to Anne-Marie, who was an admitted nervous flyer – i found this out after she sunk her nails into my forearm as the engines whirred up. Once we got going she was able to calm down, and she was a pure delight – lots of jokes, and more about her life up in Manchester. 

 

But back to the hen’s do – it was clear there were at least 2 groups of women who had : a) done this type of trip before, b) who knew each other, and c) were treating this as a big girl’s trip away. I really felt for the people who were sitting near our group – here they were taking a nice holiday to Cuba, only to be met with a large, loud and bordering on rude group of ladies for a 9 1/2 hour flight (To me Australian friends, i’m trying to say that there were a stack of bogans in the cycling group). To back this up there was an announcement 5 hours into the flight that “Alcohol was no longer available on the plane”. Yep, the plane was drunk dry, and that announcement was not going down well with members of our group. I have to give credit to the air hostess who responded to a complaint from one of the women with “Madam, this is a plane, not a bar”.

 

Thankfully that was the only major event on the plane, and i took it as a time to catch up some movies – 12 years a slave, Wolf of Wall Street, and Catching Fire (Hunger Games). I’ve said it before, and i’ll say it again – noise cancelling headphones are a freaking miracle of science, and i will not travel without them. 

 

Arriving in Havana airport it was easy to see who was here for the cycling even – 2 giveaways : 1) you were wearing pink, or 2) you were carrying a cycling helmet. Happened to meet 2 UK guys with helmets, obviously not part of our group, who said they were about to do a cycling trip for 2 weeks around the whole island. They were amazing – it was either here or the middle east somewhere. Unfortunately didn’t get their details, as travelling through those locations would have been brilliant.

 

Driving from the airport to the hotel, it was apparent what conditions people face, as well and thrive in. There were the cadillacs, but mostly there were decaying flats where people were living – and from the air conditioned bus this was a hard sight to take in. I arrived at the hotel right on the beach – enough time to have some dinner, then off to bed in preparation for tomorrow’s first day cycling. It is 7pm and 32 degrees, so lets just say there will be some fabulous photos with questionable hairstyles along the way (curly hair + humidity = topiary tree effect).